Casco Viejo - come while you can

As some of you likely know, I was on holiday in Panama earlier this year. I didn't really research Panama much before I came but probably should have... I based my decision to go there on the fact that travellers I had met in Nicaragua a few years back spoke highly of parts of it. Turns out, I need to pay closer attention, but that is for another post.

View towards downtown from Casco Viejo

Like the beginning of pretty much any trip this one starts in the capital city, Panama. With my trusted* Lonely Planet in hand I started trying to figure out where I wanted to stay. If you've ever tried planning where you want to stay when you don't know what you want to see, you'll know that it's a bit of a battle.

I settled on Casco Viejo ("Old Compound") because of numerous reviews of things being referred to as charming, and who doesn't like charming? Well the masses were certainly not mistaken, it definitely is. An area most definitely in transition, crumbling façades with their ornate iron railings barely holding on sit shoulder to shoulder with grandly restored beauties.

Just about every tour you can take in Panama City includes some time here, but I dare say, especially if you are of the hotel staying variety (vs hostel goer) don't stay in a shiny glass tower downtown, spend your dollars here. The President of Panama also happens to live right smack in the middle of Casco Viejo so that means constant police patrols and permanently stationed officers nearby; this keeps the transitional neighbourhood from feeling unsafe. If you are a hostel-goer, there are at least three right in the thick of things, the only drawback for those not on budget that allows for all meals to be eaten out is the lack of a proper supermarket nearby.Casco Viejo is clearly on the upswing and as the remaining buildings are restored I can only imagine that prices will continue to rise, for both accommodation and dining options. I had the opportunity to stay at both Luna's Castle and Magnolia Inn, you can see my Trip Advisor reviews here and here and to sum it up, if you are over 30 and/or enjoy showering on a daily basis, you are probably more of a Magnolia person...

There is very little English spoken in Panama City, which, yes, the language here is Spanish so not really a surprise; it does come as a bit of an adjustment however, after travelling to places like India and Thailand where those in close contact with tourists often have just enough English under their belt to be able to help a hapless mono-linguistic traveller such as myself.

Some costs to consider when planning a trip here: taxi ride from airport ~$35, bus only available during the day and would likely still require a cab ride of a few dollars. Dorm beds $15 and up. Private rooms can be had in a great place, the Magnolia Inn (also a "luxury hostel") for $80 and up.